Peppermint Shrimp

Peppermint shrimp are known to eat glass anemone (Aiptasia). This anemone is  considered a pest in the marine reef aquarium as it reproduces at a high rate and has the ability to sting coral and fish. To control and get rid of this pest, many reef keepers use the Peppermint Shrimp.

Even though the peppermint shrimp is  regarded as a “cleaner shrimp”, the Peppermint shrimp may not clean as regularly as other shrimps such as the skunk cleaner shrimp.

Peppermint shrimp can coexist with many other of its own species but may fight with other species of shrimp in the tank. Reef hobbyists have had mixed reactions in regards to keeping these inverts in a tank. Some report that they bite into corals, and some are quite shy, very rarely appearing from the rocks for many days in a stretch. Personally I have never had these problems with my peppermint shrimp but I will say that they are more comfortable in groups.

It is a known fact that Peppermint shrimp do not get along with Coral Banded Shrimp of the same sex, so do not put them in the same tank.

Peppermint shrimp can be a shy creature and  are nocturnal, which means you will see most of their action at night when they go out in search of food, while all the other fish in the tank are sleeping.

As for nutrients and health, Peppermint shrimp, like other shrimps need Iodine supplements on a periodic basis to assist them in shedding their exoskeleton. This is known as “molting”. When shrimp molt, they will be quite vulnerable and will usually hide under the live rock until the molt is complete. Some marine reef aquarium owns insist on dosing iodine to help cleaner shrimp and other inverts molt. You must ensure that you use an iodine test kit to ensure that you give the correct of dosage into the water. If you overdose on Iodine, you can get side effects such as too much brown algae within the aquarium or harming and staining corals. If you are doing water changes frequently then there may be no reason to dose iodine.

Do not worry about feeding the shrimp on regular basis, as they will most likely scavenge and eat any leftover fish food, detritus and algae from the tank. They will sift through the sand at the bottom of the tank, so ensure that you put find sand in the aquarium, not coral sand or gravel. From time to time you can supplement their diet with with meaty foods such as scallops, mysis shrimp or other meaty seafoods.

Yellow Tang

Yellow Tangs are one of the five most popular fish in the marine hobby along with the Percula Clownfish, Blue Tang, Flame Angelfish and Royal Gramma.

They are the most common Surgeonfish along with the blue tang. Their bright, vibrant color makes an excellent addition to any reef aquarium and frequently used in advertisements and marketing in the aquarium industry.

Their bright yellow color is second to none and they possess no other markings except for a small white blade on its dorsal fin which is only used during fighting.

The yellow tang is prevalent in Hawaii and surrounding islands and swim in huge shoals. Divers who dive in the area regularly witnesses their schooling behavior and marvel at their beauty.

In the tank, Yellow tangs are prone to marine ich and lateral line erosion.  Marine ich can be treated with various Aquarium Pharmaceutical products, hyposalinity and other methods.  The price of these fish are relatively cheaper than hard-to-find tangs such as the Sohal or Achilles Tang.  Usually Yellow tangs sell for between $60 and $80 per fish.

In regards to temperament, the yellow tank is a peaceful fish and can coexist with other species of fish. However, they may get aggressive with other types of surgeonfish, especially with other yellow tangs. These hostilities will be eradicated if these fish are houses in an aquarium which is large enough.

Yellow tangs like to form shoals and play ‘follow the leader, so if you are planning to keep more than one yellow tang, ensure that you introduce them at the same time.

Yellow tangs reach up to 8 inches and require a 100 gallon tank (minimum) if you are to keep them to adulthood

A Yellow tang’s diet includes a combination of algae, krill, Mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, pellets or marine food. Although herbivores in the wild, tangs will eat a combination of algae and meat matter. Being completely safe for reefs, they are safe to keep with your corals. It is noted that you should never feed Tangs lettuce, as it does not provide any nutrition to the fish.

Since Yellow tangs consume a large amount of algae in the wild, it is crucial that these fish get an adequate diet of algae. Algae can be given as part of a flake, frozen food or as pellets. There are many reputable brands which sell these food, along with trace minerals and nutrients which are found in the wild.

There are many different types of Saltwater Shrimp available for the salt water reef aquarium. One of the most common Cleaner Shrimp in the saltwater aquarium trade are the Banded Coral Shrimp also known as a Boxer Shrimp.  These Shrimp are typically obtained for Ornamental, worm control and cleaner properties, Banded Coral shrimp are very good scavengers that make a good addition to any reef tank if you don’t mind a semi-aggressive shrimp.

Banded Coral Shrimp are native to the Caribbean and their scientific name is Stenopus hispidus.  They thrive in an environment with temperatures in the 72-80F range and a salinity factor of the average reef aquarium from 1.023-1.025.  They can get as big as 3 inches with their antennae growing up to 6inches and are Carnivores.  They scavenge the reefs live rock for food matter especially meaty foods such as decaying fish. Banded Coral Shrimp are mainly nocturnal and will do most of their scavenging at night however they can be active during the day especially if food is offered to them or your tank. The Banded Coral Shrimp are notorious worm killers, I initially purchased my shrimp to control my huge population of bristle worms.  This shrimp will however kill other worms including feather dusters ( I have lost 4 feather dusters in the last 4 yours to this shrimp).

A Banded Coral Shrimp sits on a Montipora Coral

I have witnessed my Banded Coral Shrimp can show aggressive behavior to smaller tank mates (gobies, blennies) when not properly fed or if the tank is so clean that they cannot scavenge anything.  They often wave their Antennae to sense when food is in the water.  If not enough food can be scavenged in your reef aquarium then it is suggested to supplement your banded Coral Shrimp with meaty foods ,bits of silversides, krill or mysis shrimp are among favorites of my Shrimp.

As with all salt water invertebrates; the use of copper medication in your reef tank is strictly forbidden, please keep tabs on all pH changes and avoid at all costs handling your boxer shrimp, those huge claws can leave a rather nasty pinch.  A good amount of live rock is a must for this species of shrimp as they use it for shelter, food and safety.  Drip Acclimation is required when first purchased.

The Video above is one of my Banded Coral Shrimp just hanging out on the rock work in my reef aquarium.

There are many different types of starfish for the salt water reef aquarium. One of the most common starfish in the saltwater aquarium trade are the Serpent Starfish .  These Starfish are typically obtained for removing detritus and other aquarium wastes such as dead snails or fish, Serpent starfish are outstanding scavengers that make a great addition to any reef tank

Serpent Starfish are native to the Caribbean and their scientific name is Ophioderma.  They thrive in an environment with temperatures in the 75-78F range and a salinity factor of the average reef aquarium from 1.023-1.026.  They can get as big as 12 inches and are omnivorous scavengers.  They scavenge the reefs live rock for waste as well as meaty foods such as decaying fish. Serpent starfish are mainly nocturnal and will do most of their scavenging at night however they can be active during the day especially if food is offered to them or your tank.

I have witnessed serpent stars can show aggressive behavior to smaller tank mates (gobies, blennies) when not properly fed or if the tank is so clean that they cannot scavenge anything.  They often wave their tentacles around when food is in the water.  If not enough food can be scavenged in your reef aquarium then it is suggested to supplement your serpent starfish  with meaty foods ,silversides, krill or mysis shrimp are among favorites of my serpent starfish.

As with all salt water invertebrates; the use of copper medication in your reef tank is strictly forbidden, please keep tabs on all pH changes and avoid at all costs lifting starfish or any echinoderm into open air as it can get caught in their central disc and will eventually kill your starfish.  Large amounts of rock work are a must for this species of starfish as they use it for shelter, food and safety.  Drip Acclimation is required when first purchased.

The  Video above is one of my serpent starfish reaching for a chunky piece of fish that I was feeding him, this particular starfish is approximately 10 inches long.

A Video From Brett’s reef Aquarium. Enjoy!